Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 56603BC: Diamonds, Emeralds & White Gold
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ref. 56603BC
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ref. 56603BC is a combination of high-end watchmaking and high-end jewelry. From the late 1990s through the early 2000s, this model featured Gerald Genta's original octagonal design in white gold, with diamonds and vibrant emeralds; however, the original lines of the design remained intact.
The 56603BC does not speak quietly. As soon as you put it on your wrist it will catch every single light in the room. Yet, it continues to maintain the clean and angular look that helped make the Royal Oak so well-known. This combination of jewelry and design is what makes the 56603BC so appealing to collectors today.
The Legacy of the Royal Oak
In 1972, Audemars Piguet introduced the Royal Oak, a luxury sports watch with an integrated bracelet and octagonal bezel, held together by eight exposed screws. The Royal Oak broke the mold of traditional luxury watches. It quickly became one of the most identifiable watches ever produced.
By the mid-1990s, Audemars Piguet began creating limited edition versions of their smaller 33 mm quartz models as platforms for bold gem-set designs. The 56603BC was one of Audemars Piguet's boldest designs.
According to reports, Genta designed the Royal Oak in one night after being inspired by the porthole of an old diving helmet. Initially, the Royal Oak was priced higher than many of the gold dress watches available at that time, but Genta took a risk that ultimately paid off. Today, the Royal Oak represents a significant part of Audemars Piguet's product line and is recognizable around the world.
Details
Every stone used in the production of the 56603BC was hand set at the Audemars Piguet factory. This is an important distinction from aftermarket gem-setting. Genta's eight-sided design is replicated in the emerald bezel.
Therefore, when looking at the 56603BC from a distance, Genta's original design is immediately apparent despite all of the sparkle provided by the gems.
Underneath the emerald bezel is a pavé dial that reflects light in multiple directions. The bracelet is adorned with diamonds along the length of the wrist, with emeralds appearing within the center links. The quartz movement keeps the case thin and allows the wearer to easily wear the watch.
Gem-Setting Craftsmanship
When examined closely, the craftsmanship of the 56603BC is evident. Each gem must be placed precisely so that there are no gaps between them and so that the surface of the watch remains smooth and comfortable against the skin. The baguettes in the bezel must be cut to follow the angles of the octagon perfectly and leave no space between adjacent stones.
For example, Phillips documented one version of the 56603BC that contained 508 princess-cut and 86 baguette-cut diamonds in addition to its emeralds. Since the placement of gems varies from example to example, each 56603BC feels unique.
Why Emeralds?
Emerald is considered one of the finest gemstones and is also one of the most difficult to work with due to its brittleness and tendency to contain inclusions. Creating a tight arrangement of baguette-cut gems around an octagonal bezel requires considerable skill.
When combined with white diamonds, the deep green color of the emeralds appears even more vibrant. In commemoration of the Royal Oak's 50th Anniversary in 2022, Audemars Piguet released a special one-off 41mm version of the Royal Oak that was entirely composed of emeralds.
Symbolism and Style
In addition to their beauty, emeralds have symbolic significance. They have been associated with renewal, good fortune, and prosperity for centuries and have historically been worn by royalty.
When displayed on a Royal Oak, the green color adds character to the watch that no all-diamond version can emulate. The green lends a bold and self-assured appearance to the watch while maintaining an air of elegance suitable for formal events.
A Collector's Statement Piece
The 56603BC is extremely rare and collectors are aware of this rarity. Factory-set gem Royal Oaks from this period seldom appear on the market and those that do usually display poor condition that renders them unworthy of ownership.
At 33mm, the 56603BC is appropriate for nearly every wrist size and complements both male and female wearers equally well. The 56603BC can serve as evening jewelry, an everyday accessory for a confident individual or a serious collectible for someone who appreciates the history of the Royal Oak.
Phillips and other auctioneers have conducted specialized auctions devoted solely to gem-set Royal Oaks, indicating that collectors now assign considerable value to these items.
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